With each new day, and each new wave, one has to commit into the gravity of change.
And this day and swell in October this was a spontaneous 10-15 minute window shot by my friend Leo.
I would like to share a little bit of the backstory of these three screenshots from some drone footage.
On this day, the waves were between six and 8 feet, with 4 to 6 waves in each set.
Before these images, I caught my first wave, and the wave closed out and got caught up in the white You water and lost my board.
I was still pretty far outside, and I had a long swim in to get my board. I managed to get my board in about knee-deep water, I took some deep breaths and turned around and paddled back out through another set of waves..
I made it back out and focused on getting and staying present and got back into proper breathing.
This was the second wave I caught and It was a speed run to say the least..
I am riding a 8 foot eight single fin square tail with a 9 inch fin.
First photo I’m committing to the turn
This image I’m locked into the turn
Full speed gravity turn. Thanks for checking out the latest see you in the surf.
One of the tribe members Phil with his custom shaped and painted 9’6.
Tribe members Jack, izaac, franchesco and Monika surf stoked at sano.
These paintings are in a recent custom for Michael who is evolving into a unique surfer with his own style. Also a excellent leather worker with custom art, and engravings.
Top and bottom both freehand paintings
Thanks positive tribe see you in or out of the water.
Research and development surfing on custom made surfboards & art.
I still get stoked on shaping new boards for clients and for myself.
Here is a 9ft board about 22.75 wide single fin set up. This board weighs around 14.50 to 15.50 Lbs.
This is a choppy smalls day about 1-2ft surf with some pockets to create enough momentum to make some turns.
One of the was I keep the fire stoked is to keep surfing and to keep rotating the boards every 6-12 months.
This is the latest 9 footer I have been riding. I have had in 2ft up to 6ft and it covers everything from trimming to nose riding to carving when the waves are permitting the speed.
The finished shaped board, clean and simple with the wedge stringers inspired by Rene Yater, in the mid 90s may begin using that set up on my own boards.
A small day with some quick nose rides through the chop.
Thank you each for your positive support energy and intentions.
Custom made Surfboards and Art since 1993 by a Surfer shaper artist.
(Experience is priceless)
Specializing in Custom Surfboards, for the individual not the latest trends.
surfboards are very similar to cars not everyone knows how to drive a Ferrari, Porsche or a a van, let alone a stick shift.
The point is one can order the latest trends of con-caves, and rockers and rails and wide tails to the thicknesses but unless you know what each of those do you’re wasting your money and time
Building a business grassroots style takes time, and as a surfer I have learned and continue to do so, on what each board will do from short, medium and long boards it takes thousands of hours and many years.
There’s a difference between ego and confidence, and I will not sell a surfboard to anyone just to make a dollar.
I make a living at shaping surfboards and art, and a health guide. I have built a solid foundation of friends and clients all built on trust.
This is my new 9’1 and I’m about 8 sessions into the journey and I’m very happy with the glide and the speed and the turning options.
I adjust the fin depending on the wave size.
It’s the best of both worlds, classic, cruising, and performance carving turns when the waves are permitting.
I began painting my boards in the late 80s with abstract colors before I started shaping.
The art evolved over the years into part of what you see on this board.
All color options are available from resin tints to an opaque to Airbrushing.
I like to put positive words and reminders on my boards and is requested by the clients for the simple reasons of staying present focused on the good, breathe in the moment, all the good reminders when you’re in the lineup waiting for the next set of waves.
I’m grateful for each and everyone of you and thank you for the support and positive intentions and all the empowering conversation.
I’m proud and grateful to say 85 to 90% of all the people on Instagram that follow the journey, I have met personally and some I know more than others. Thank you each..
Here is a video on my YouTube channel check it out and join the tribe and click subscribe, your comments and thumbs up help to get the message out there..
Remember, no validation required. Stay in your lane. Don’t compare, have healthy boundaries and keep paddling out.
Each of you will go to your own past perceptions with that title.
The key is will it be positive or negative in your mind.
When I say the word simplicity I go to a healthy lifestyle with healthy priorities.
A life not a slave to the negative conditioning or the maintenance of stuff whatever that may be for you.
There is no hack or quick fix or any amount of money or things that will truly make one happy, until you, me and we , learn how to self regulate the mind and body out of the stress mode that most people are in.
Until one learns how to breathe properly and what nose and mouth breathing does to the mind and body than you will always be on the Merry, go round of life running on adrenaline/cortisol never letting the mind and body relax, release and recharge and truly be present.
This is a n original freehand 11 x 14 painting that is currently hanging in the Beach Fire restaurant on Delmar Street in San Clemente California.
This original freehand painting is named
(find your mission in life)
I was inspired by the mission in San Juan Capistrano with my own interpretation of a dream lifestyle,
Here is a video on my YouTube channel. Take a look at it and join the tribe click subscribe let me know your thoughts and comments.
Thank you for checking in. Keep the creative fire stoked have an awesome.
