Surfing is a lot like life.
With each new day, and each new wave, one has to commit into the gravity of change.
And this day and swell in October this was a spontaneous 10-15 minute window shot by my friend Leo.
I would like to share a little bit of the backstory of these three screenshots from some drone footage.
On this day, the waves were between six and 8 feet, with 4 to 6 waves in each set.
Before these images, I caught my first wave, and the wave closed out and got caught up in the white You water and lost my board.
I was still pretty far outside, and I had a long swim in to get my board. I managed to get my board in about knee-deep water, I took some deep breaths and turned around and paddled back out through another set of waves..
I made it back out and focused on getting and staying present and got back into proper breathing.
This was the second wave I caught and It was a speed run to say the least..
I am riding a 8 foot eight single fin square tail with a 9 inch fin.
First photo I’m committing to the turn
Find me on Instagram and YouTube @paulcarterart
