Surfing San Clemente surfboards by Paul Carter 10-2024

Surfing is a lot like life.

With each new day, and each new wave, one has to commit into the gravity of change.

And this day and swell in October this was a spontaneous 10-15 minute window shot by my friend Leo.

I would like to share a little bit of the backstory of these three screenshots from some drone footage.

On this day, the waves were between six and 8 feet, with 4 to 6 waves in each set.

Before these images, I caught my first wave, and the wave closed out and got caught up in the white You water and lost my board.

I was still pretty far outside, and I had a long swim in to get my board.  I managed to get my board in about knee-deep water, I took some deep breaths and turned around and paddled back out through another set of waves..

I made it back out and focused on getting and staying present and got back into proper breathing.

This was the second wave I caught and It was a speed run to say the least..

I am riding a 8 foot eight single fin square tail with a 9 inch fin.

First photo I’m committing to the turn 

This image I’m locked into the turn

Full speed gravity turn.    Thanks for checking out the latest see you in the surf.

 Find me on Instagram and YouTube @paulcarterart