With each new day, and each new wave, one has to commit into the gravity of change.
And this day and swell in October this was a spontaneous 10-15 minute window shot by my friend Leo.
I would like to share a little bit of the backstory of these three screenshots from some drone footage.
On this day, the waves were between six and 8 feet, with 4 to 6 waves in each set.
Before these images, I caught my first wave, and the wave closed out and got caught up in the white You water and lost my board.
I was still pretty far outside, and I had a long swim in to get my board. I managed to get my board in about knee-deep water, I took some deep breaths and turned around and paddled back out through another set of waves..
I made it back out and focused on getting and staying present and got back into proper breathing.
This was the second wave I caught and It was a speed run to say the least..
I am riding a 8 foot eight single fin square tail with a 9 inch fin.
First photo I’m committing to the turn
This image I’m locked into the turn
Full speed gravity turn. Thanks for checking out the latest see you in the surf.
One of the tribe members Phil with his custom shaped and painted 9’6.
Tribe members Jack, izaac, franchesco and Monika surf stoked at sano.
These paintings are in a recent custom for Michael who is evolving into a unique surfer with his own style. Also a excellent leather worker with custom art, and engravings.
Top and bottom both freehand paintings
Thanks positive tribe see you in or out of the water.
Research and development surfing on custom made surfboards & art.
I still get stoked on shaping new boards for clients and for myself.
Here is a 9ft board about 22.75 wide single fin set up. This board weighs around 14.50 to 15.50 Lbs.
This is a choppy smalls day about 1-2ft surf with some pockets to create enough momentum to make some turns.
One of the was I keep the fire stoked is to keep surfing and to keep rotating the boards every 6-12 months.
This is the latest 9 footer I have been riding. I have had in 2ft up to 6ft and it covers everything from trimming to nose riding to carving when the waves are permitting the speed.
The finished shaped board, clean and simple with the wedge stringers inspired by Rene Yater, in the mid 90s may begin using that set up on my own boards.
A small day with some quick nose rides through the chop.
Thank you each for your positive support energy and intentions.
Custom made Surfboards and Art since 1993 by a Surfer shaper artist.
(Experience is priceless)
Specializing in Custom Surfboards, for the individual not the latest trends.
surfboards are very similar to cars not everyone knows how to drive a Ferrari, Porsche or a a van, let alone a stick shift.
The point is one can order the latest trends of con-caves, and rockers and rails and wide tails to the thicknesses but unless you know what each of those do you’re wasting your money and time
Building a business grassroots style takes time, and as a surfer I have learned and continue to do so, on what each board will do from short, medium and long boards it takes thousands of hours and many years.
There’s a difference between ego and confidence, and I will not sell a surfboard to anyone just to make a dollar.
I make a living at shaping surfboards and art, and a health guide. I have built a solid foundation of friends and clients all built on trust.
This is my new 9’1 and I’m about 8 sessions into the journey and I’m very happy with the glide and the speed and the turning options.
I adjust the fin depending on the wave size.
It’s the best of both worlds, classic, cruising, and performance carving turns when the waves are permitting.
I began painting my boards in the late 80s with abstract colors before I started shaping.
The art evolved over the years into part of what you see on this board.
All color options are available from resin tints to an opaque to Airbrushing.
I like to put positive words and reminders on my boards and is requested by the clients for the simple reasons of staying present focused on the good, breathe in the moment, all the good reminders when you’re in the lineup waiting for the next set of waves.
I’m grateful for each and everyone of you and thank you for the support and positive intentions and all the empowering conversation.
I’m proud and grateful to say 85 to 90% of all the people on Instagram that follow the journey, I have met personally and some I know more than others. Thank you each..
Here is a video on my YouTube channel check it out and join the tribe and click subscribe, your comments and thumbs up help to get the message out there..
Remember, no validation required. Stay in your lane. Don’t compare, have healthy boundaries and keep paddling out.
Each of you will go to your own past perceptions with that title.
The key is will it be positive or negative in your mind.
When I say the word simplicity I go to a healthy lifestyle with healthy priorities.
A life not a slave to the negative conditioning or the maintenance of stuff whatever that may be for you.
There is no hack or quick fix or any amount of money or things that will truly make one happy, until you, me and we , learn how to self regulate the mind and body out of the stress mode that most people are in.
Until one learns how to breathe properly and what nose and mouth breathing does to the mind and body than you will always be on the Merry, go round of life running on adrenaline/cortisol never letting the mind and body relax, release and recharge and truly be present.
This is a n original freehand 11 x 14 painting that is currently hanging in the Beach Fire restaurant on Delmar Street in San Clemente California.
This original freehand painting is named
(find your mission in life)
I was inspired by the mission in San Juan Capistrano with my own interpretation of a dream lifestyle,
Here is a video on my YouTube channel. Take a look at it and join the tribe click subscribe let me know your thoughts and comments.
Thank you for checking in. Keep the creative fire stoked have an awesome.
Hello and thank you for following the journey and reading this blog journal.
Here is a 6’8 that is fun to ride in head high to double overheard surf.
This board has a few speed spots and with a little more overall width it paddles great and has plenty of speed through the sections.
I like to ride this on those overhead days at trestles.
I put a little more curve in the back half of the board to give a larger area for turns.
This a print a recent freehand painting depicting San Mateo and the native life and living. Showing the waves of trestles from a time many years ago.
The frame was created by James out of the local bamboo. Thanks amigo. This board has the custom wedge stringers by Usblanks.
There are a few reasons why I have been using this stringer set up since the mid 1990s. To start with strength overall and the box fits in between the stringers, as opposed to cutting a stringer away.
This is a 9’6 that I’ve been riding for the last month or so. This board is glassed with six on the bottom double six on the top. 18 1/4 nose 22 3/4 wide by 15 1/4 tail by 2.75 thick. This is a single fin set up with the best of classic and performance for cruising or carving and nose riding..
Custom made Surfboards and Art since 1993 by Surfer-Shaper-Artist Paul Carter.
Here is a 9’6 I recently had a test ride on it. I am really happy with it at 23 wide 15 1/2 tail by 2 3/4 thick. It glides, and it turns when I want it to.
This board ways around 18 maybe 19 pounds 6oz on the bottom, six and four on the top.
For all those that are stuck in the left brain analytical perfectionist, ego. side , yes I know the nose is cut off and part of me wanted to delete it.
My right brain said no it’s Art. It’s creativity its freedom leave it..
This is a 9’1 that I’ve been riding for the last few months works great and waist high to overhead surf. This weighs around 16 1/2 to 17 pounds.
Riding mid range or longer boards is a training and a continual learning process of letting the board do the work.
Getting back on shorter boards I like to keep the same flow state.
Thanks for following the journey.
Join me on Instagram or YouTube at paulcarterart. Have an awesome day.
A original painting from the archives on a trip back from Mammoth stopping at convict lake.
I originally made a sketch of this beautiful lake, and this is the painting I created.
I like to go back to some of the original paintings, and remember that time period. I get inspired to highlight some of the paintings from the beginning of the journey, I add the present date under the original date.
Abstract Expressionism here is the completed painting
With a few layers of colors and highlights.
Thank you so much for following the journey.
Let me know if you have any questions or comments about Commission, Art or Surfboards.
Going back in time to 3-2017 an abstract painting of
(Dana cove yesterday)
I like to go back in time to the original art work and see where I was on my art journey and life.
I first started with a light blue in the sky, and added a little bit into the water and the waves
I added some darker blue into the sky, to give it more depth, and into the waves
Here is the completed highlighting from the sky to the ocean to the clouds to the mountain to the waves and the sun. Each one has been highlighted, including the rocks.
Dana Cove Killer Dana yesterday for those that enjoyed the waves before the harbor I can only imagine how beautiful it was.
I added San Clemente and Catalina island. I also think of the native indigenous people that lived off the land for thousands of years.
I have surfed outside the jetty a few times and on the right direction swell. It gets pretty good and you definitely want to know where the rocks are before you go out.
Thank you each for following the journey and joining me on Instagram and YouTube @paulcarterart I appreciate our positive uplifting conversations in and out of the water.
Inspired by nature, a small 4 x 6 canvas board. This is an original painting and sketch.
I am inspired by clouds and the multi colors of nature.
Embrace the seasons of change from releasing to renewing and restoring.
When I walk out in the mountains I often think of those that paved the way before me, and how they lived off the land.
Embrace your creativity and remember, social media is not being social.
Texting is not healthy communication yes, it is used for yes and no and short answers but not personal issues or conversations.
Thank you each for following the journey and as always, I appreciate the positive support, intentions and uplifting conversations in and out of the water.
Learning to have a positive perception is a training a daily practice of awareness.
What do you see in this first picture? Where does your perception go?
I am reminded of the power of staying present today, in the moment to experience the beauty of nature and life much more.
Clouds are amazing and they represent abstract Expressionism and visionary art because there’s so much to see in the layers and the colors in the shades of clouds.
As I look at this time capsule, I’m reminded of the importance of a strong mind with strong roots.
Learning to self regulate out of the sympathetic nervous system into the parasympathetic nervous system is very important on a daily basis
Thank you for following the journey.
For those that would like to learn a powerful, beginning, breathing meditation Simply call for a 10-20 minute phone conversation.
A time to listen and learn about the options to better health and happiness.
