Why do YOU surf?
Think about it people WHY.
and what is it that makes you get in the
water year around in all types of waves and conditions. For me surfing is like meditating. It's a spiritual energy that is not very easy to describe. Surfing has kept me balanced in my life for many years and many more to come one day at a time. I enjoy shaping and riding my own boards because it keeps me even more in contact with the art of riding waves through life.
So as the saying goes in shaping measure twice and cut once. The same goes for speaking your mind. Much more to follow from art of shaping to the art of surfing.